KYB Strut-Plus, Subaru Ball Joint Pullers, and 2009 Honda Accord Alternators: A Mechanic's FAQ

What You'll Find Here

I've been running a general repair shop for 12 years. Over that time, I've installed more suspension components than I can count, replaced dozens of alternators, and broken my share of tools (and knuckles). These are the questions I get asked most often — by customers, by new techs, and by my own kids when they're working on their cars in my driveway.

No fluff. Just answers.

Q1: Are KYB Strut-Plus Assemblies Any Good?

Short answer: yes, but with a caveat.

KYB is an OEM supplier. That means when you buy a Strut-Plus assembly, you're getting the same basic engineering that went into the factory struts on thousands of vehicles. The Strut-Plus line specifically comes pre-assembled — spring, mount, bearing, boot, and bumper all included — which saves you the hassle (and the liability) of compressing springs yourself.

I've installed maybe 200 of these over the past five years. I've had exactly two come back with issues. One was a defective mount bearing that started clunking after about 8,000 miles. The other was a customer who ignored the alignment recommendation and chewed through a brand-new tire in three months. That one wasn't KYB's fault.

But here's the caveat: Strut-Plus is designed for stock ride height and stock spring rates. If you're lifted, lowered, or carrying heavy loads regularly, you're better off with a bare strut and a separate spring that matches your application. I learned that the hard way back in 2019 when I put Strut-Plus on a customer's lifted Outback. It rode like a pogo stick. I ended up eating the labor to swap them out for something adjustable.

Also — and I can't believe I have to say this — don't reuse your old top mount hardware. The kit comes with new hardware for a reason.

Q2: What Is the KYB Strut-Plus Assembly SR4394 For?

The SR4394 is a specific part number. I've got it memorized because I've used it on a bunch of Subaru models from the mid-2000s to early 2010s. It fits the front left or front right position on certain Legacy, Outback, and Baja models — but you need to verify by year and trim level. Subaru changed the mounting points slightly between generations.

What makes the SR4394 different from a generic strut is the valving. KYB tunes the damping to match the OEM specs for that specific vehicle. So if you're putting it on the correct application, it'll feel like the car did when it rolled off the lot. If you're putting it on the wrong application, it'll feel wrong — too stiff, too soft, or just vague.

One thing I always tell customers: check the part number against your VIN. Not the year and model. The VIN. I made that mistake once on a 2006 Outback that had a mid-year suspension change. Ordered the SR4394, installed it, and the customer came back two days later complaining about a clunk. Turned out his car needed the SR4395. That was a $180 mistake plus three hours of my time.

Q3: Do I Need a Special Ball Joint Puller for a Subaru?

Yes. And no, a pickle fork doesn't count.

Subaru ball joints are pressed into the lower control arm. You're not going to hammer them out with a fork without destroying the boot — and probably the arm too. I've seen it done. It's not pretty.

What you actually need is a proper ball joint puller — sometimes called a separator or a removal tool. The OTC 6295 or a similar design works well. It's basically a C-frame with a forcing screw that pushes the joint out of the arm. I've had mine for eight years. It cost me about $90 back then. Best money I ever spent on suspension tools.

The alternative is to pull the whole control arm and take it to a press. That works too, but it's more labor. If you're a DIYer doing this in your garage, the puller pays for itself the first time you use it. If you're a shop, you should already have one. If you're a shop and you don't have one, we need to talk.

One more thing: soak the joint in penetrating oil the night before. Subaru ball joints love to rust in place. I've had ones that came out in five minutes and ones that took an hour of coaxing. The difference was usually the prep work.

Q4: What Alternator Fits a 2009 Honda Accord?

The 2009 Accord came with a few different engine options — the 2.4L four-cylinder and the 3.5L V6. The alternator part numbers are different between them. You can't just grab any Accord alternator and expect it to work.

For the 2.4L, you're looking at something in the 105-amp range from the factory. For the V6, it's closer to 130 amps. Aftermarket options are all over the place. Denso and Bosch both make good replacements. I've had decent luck with Remy too, but I've also had two Remy units fail out of the box — one had a bad voltage regulator, the other had a bearing whine right out of the box. So I'm a little gun-shy on that brand now.

The job itself isn't terrible on the four-cylinder. You can get it from the top with a serpentine belt tool and a 14mm socket. The V6 is tighter. I usually pull the passenger side wheel and go through the wheel well. It's still doable, but plan on scraping your knuckles.

Pro tip: replace the belt and tensioner while you're in there. It's cheap insurance. I've seen too many people put a new alternator on a worn belt and then wonder why they're getting a squeal a month later.

Q5: What Size Socket for a Lawn Mower Spark Plug?

Most lawn mower spark plugs use a 13/16-inch socket. Some smaller engines use a 5/8-inch. You'll also run into the occasional 3/4-inch on older or larger engines.

But here's the thing — a standard deep socket might not fit. The plug sits down in a recess, and the socket walls can be too thick to get around it. That's where a dedicated spark plug socket comes in. It has thinner walls and a rubber insert that holds the plug so you can thread it in without dropping it.

I've got three spark plug sockets in my toolbox: 5/8, 13/16, and 3/4. The 13/16 gets used the most. I can't remember the last time I touched the 3/4, but I keep it around just in case.

If you're not sure what size you need, pull the plug first and measure it. Or just buy a set. They're cheap. Way cheaper than stripping the threads on your cylinder head because you used the wrong tool.

One Last Thing

Every job I've talked about here has one thing in common: the cheap option costs more in the long run. A $30 ball joint puller saves you a $200 control arm. A $90 alternator that fails in six months costs you the part, the labor, and the tow. I've been on both sides of that equation. The expensive side is less fun.

Do it right the first time. Your future self will thank you.